Archive for category Trying to Sell Your Horse
Please view our other pages before placing an ad!
Following are links to places where you can advertise your horse for free. If you are able to add a free photo, I’ve made mention of that.
Please consider advertising your horse in multiple places. If you do this, my suggestion would be to keep a list of all the places you’ve advertised your horse, and be sure to go back and cancel the ads after your horse sells.
If you have suggestions of places to advertise horses, please email me at rehomeyourhorse(at)hotmail(.)com and I will add them to the list. If you have had issues with any of the places listed, I would also like to hear from you regarding those issues.
Also, if you are able to post photos to a free photo host such as Flickr, why not post free text ads and link back to the photo? It’s more work for the buyer, but if your ad is well written and interests the buyer, they’ll click the link.
Canada & US
|Free Horse Ads||?|
|Horsetopia||Free text ads, $9.95 for photos|
|Horses Classified||Not the prettiest site in the world, but hell, it’s free!|
|Kijiji||Be sure to go back every few days to make your listing stays near the top.|
|American Dream Horses|
* Please note I have purposely not listed Craigslist on here.
So, someone has responded to your ad, and is coming to see the horse. What should you do? How should you prepare?
There are a few simple things you should do in preparation of the potential buyers arrival.
Yes, tidy up your place. That means in general, your house should be clean and tidy (if you end up having coffee to discuss the horse, especially if it’s rather cold or hot out, it would be nice to be prepared with a clean and tidy kitchen). If the front of your property is generally clean, orderly and tidy, this will make a much better impression on the buyer. Why should this matter, you ask? Well, it’s the same principle as Real Estate. A person comes to look at a house for sale. If the house is messy, full of junk, and disorderly, no one is going to buy the house. At least not at the listed price! Impression is everything. So if you’re looking to actually find a good buyer for your horse, and are asking more than a few hundred dollars, you should be trying to make that all important good first impression.
Of course, this principle should carry on down to the paddock and barn.
I’m a firm believer in a barn and any area a horse is in being clean and orderly. If there is junk and garbage in the paddock, you are just asking for injury and vet bills. If there’s an emergency, and each horses’ halter, bridle and tack is in its’ spot, you don’t have to run around looking for the halter while the emergency is ongoing.
If these practices are followed generally, you won’t have much in the way of tidying up for the prospective buyer will you?
Groom the Horse
Before the buyer is to arrive, ensure the horse is clean, groomed, and happy. Have the halter on already – unless your horse is perfect about being caught and haltered everytime.
There is almost nothing worse than a buyer standing around while you take twenty minutes just to catch the horse! BUT, if your horse generally takes twenty minutes to catch, be honest about that. Why have the buyer get home with the horse, release it into a nice big pasture, and never be able to catch it? If you’re honest up front about issues your horse has, the buyer can be better prepared when they get home with the horse, and (for example) put the horse in a smaller pen for a while – until they get used to each other.
Be sure the horses’ feet are clean and picked (and recently trimmed!), and the horse is generally looking its’ best. After all, you are trying to sell someone something! Presenting something at its’ best is a good practice; lying about what you’re selling is not.
(If the horse is being sold as “broken” and ridable.)
Be prepared to ride the horse in front of the buyer. Show the buyer everything your horse can do. Of course if you’re selling the horse as “bomb proof” that might be hard to demonstrate, but a bomb proof horse is generally a fairly tame horse and the buyer should be able to recognize this. If you’re selling a jumper, you should have jumps set up to demonstrate that the horse can jump. Basically, everything in your ad should be able to be proven.
Often times someone coming to purchase a horse may actually want to ride the horse themselves. It can be a good thing to have a waiver ready, that releases you from responsibility if the buyer gets hurt while riding your horse. It’s an excellent thing to only allow the buyer to ride if they are wearing proper footwear and a helmet.
Here are a few simple tricks to look into a buyer who is interested in your horse.
First and foremost… research the buyer!
Why Research a Buyer?
Well, if you care at all about who your horse goes to, this is a good way to find out information about them. A horse is a living, breathing, feeling animal. They are expensive to maintain. They are sensitive. Please be careful about who you sell your horse to – because it’s ultimately your choice who you sell to, and your responsibilityto make sure it goes to a good home!
How to Research Online
Take each piece of information you have on them, and Google it. I suggest you do this in a few different ways outlined below. One single search will not show everything you’re looking for.
Searching by Name
Example Name: John Smith
Go to Google and type in: “John Smith” including quotes and hit enter. Of course, this will bring up every John Smith on the Internet, so adding a bit of a qualifier might help.
Type in: “John Smith” + “state” <–state being whatever state or province you live in
Using quotes in your search process really helps narrow down the results you get, as does using the plus (+) sign.
Typing in “John Smith” got me 8,660,000 results.
Typing in “John Smith” + “Colorado” got me 2,140,000.
Better yet, typing “John Smith” + “Colorado” + “horse” netted 61,100 results! See how narrowing down your search with just basic information in quotes can really help narrow your search? Try this on the buyers name, and see what comes up! You may find nothing – which I suggest is a fairly good sign – but you also may find out information that would make you decide not to sell your horse to that person.
Of course, I’m not saying go through all 60+ thousand pages of information, but definitely scroll down reading the headings and information on the first few pages of results. If you see anything about abuse, neglect, crimes, etc. maybe take a closer look. And by the way, if you hold the “Ctrl” button (command button for you Mac users) while you click on a link, it will open the page on a new tab. Doing this allows you to then close that tab when you’re done reading (ctrl+w) and you’re back at your main search page.
Searching by Phone Number
This is an excellent way to look up a person online! Take their phone number, put quotes around it similar to what we did above (“411-555-1515”) in the search engine and hit enter! A phone number is almost like a fingerprint online. If they’ve put their phone number anywhere, this will lead directly to them. What this will net is any ads the potential buyer may have posted that included their phone number. These ads could show that your potential buyer is actually a guy who buys horses to send to slaughter. These ads could show that the potential buyer has sold other horses, allowing you to see what kind of activity he’s been doing (like finding cheaper horses and “flipping” them for a quick buck), etc.
This search will also hopefully bring up any website the prospective buyer might have. A website could tell you a lot about that buyer.
Be sure to try this trick with any phone numbers you have, including cell and home numbers.
Searching by Email
There are two things of note here; one is that the buyers email can tell you a couple of things, as well as searching for the email will tell you things.
Looking at the email itself… what is the domain? If it is firstname.lastname@example.org then Hotmail is the domain. What does that tell us? That tells us that it’s a possibility that the buyer doesn’t want you to know his “real” email. Lots of people do use free domains like Hotmail, Gmail, Yahoo, etc. for their day-to-day email addresses – but on average if a person has Internet access they generally have a “real” email they use – such as through their Internet provider (example email@example.com).
The other thing you can do is search for the buyers email address online similar to what we did above with the buyers name.
Type in “firstname.lastname@example.org” in quotes and hit enter. This generally will not need any further qualifiers like state, etc. as it is similar to the phone number in that it’s almost like a fingerprint!
What did you find?
If you care at all for your horse and where it ends up, you need to have a contract when you sell the horse. There are several reasons for this; to protect yourself, to protect the buyer, to protect the horse, and not least to scare off the meat man (horse trader, kill buyer, whatever you want to call him).
Here are some good tips from EquiSearch (copied below).
How to Write a Horse Sale Contract
By Michael Beethe, Esq. from Practical Horseman
If you don’t plan to consult an attorney about a contract when buying or selling a horse, protect yourself by writing a simple, enforceable contract covering the essential points of the sales agreement. Here’s what it needs to include.
1. Identify the parties. That’s the buyer(s) and seller(s), including addresses, phone numbers, and Social Security or Federal tax-identification numbers. The seller on the contract must be the same person(s) listed on the horse’s registration papers. If seller and registered owner are different, the seller’s authority to sell the horse could be questioned. If a partnership or corporation owns a horse listed in a breed registry, the registry may require a specific person’s, or more than one person’s, signature; check with the registry for questions about ownership or required signatures.
2. Identify the horse. Include name, age, color, markings, breed, registration number (if any), and other identifying marks. Also include any special nominations; for example, if the buyer says that the horse is Futurity-nominated, and specify if the horse sells bred, with a breeding, or with a foal.
3. Date of sale. This becomes especially important if there’s a later dispute: In many cases, the date determines the time that a warranty or statute of limitations begins to run. It could also have tax implications for computing capital gains and depreciation.
4. Price and terms of sale. State the sale price; if the buyer and seller agree to some form of trade, or trade and exchange of money, spell it out clearly. If the price of the horse is paid in full at the time the contract is signed, the contract should say so. Or, if the buyer will be paying in installments, clearly spell out the schedule, including the interest rate (if any), where to send the payments, and who will retain possession of the horse and the registration papers until the amount is paid in full. Also spell out what will happen if the buyer fails to make payments.
Edit in: Here is the place to list that the horse should come back to you if for any reason the new owner can not keep it any longer (first right of refusal at original purchase price). Include a “trial period”. Include an agreement that the horse will never knowingly be sold to a dealer, to auction, or to slaughter.
5. Risk of loss. State when the buyer takes on responsibility for injury or death of the horse, injuries caused by it, and its care. Typically, risk of loss passes either at the signing of the contract or when the buyer takes possession, but it’s important to agree on the specifics.
6. Warranties. In many cases, horses are sold without any promises by the seller regarding ability or fitness. As the seller, you want your contract to state, “This horse sells ‘as is,’ with no warranties or representations whatsoever regarding future fitness and performance” (this is a disclaimer of warranty). When I draft contracts for the seller, I also insert a provision stating that any previous oral statements or claims by the seller, if not included in the written contract, are not binding. If you’re the buyer, though, and there’s an oral statement by the seller that you’ve relied on in deciding to buy, make sure that statement is in the contract. It’s customary to offer the right to have a veterinarian examine the horse instead of offering a soundness warranty. In that case, the contract should state, “In exchange for any warranties, seller has offered buyer the opportunity to have the horse examined.”
7. Prepurchase exam. If the buyer decides against the prepurchase exam, include a notation in the contract stating that the buyer declined to have a prepurchase exam performed on the horse. This documentation helps protect the seller if the unexamined horse turns up lame shortly after the sale, unless the seller can be shown to have lied in answering direct questions about soundness.
8. Insurance. If you sell a horse on installment payments, insist on insurance at least in the amount of the unpaid balance, at the buyer’s expense, with yourself named on the policy as loss payee. Otherwise, if the horse gets injured or dies before final payment has been made, you can be stuck with suing the buyer for what you’re owed. (If an expensive show or breeding horse is involved, “loss of use” insurance is also a good idea.)
9. Attorney’s fees. If a dispute arises concerning a horse sale, attorneys will probably become involved. A common contract provision for this possibility is that the loser in any legal action pays the winner’s attorneys’ fees. (Although courts aren’t required to enforce such a provision, it improves your chances of recovering some expenses if an action is decided in your favor.)
10. Signatures. All parties to the contract should sign it. The sale of a horse owned by John and Jane Doe requires both John’s signature and Jane’s. All buyers must sign as well, because the parties to the contract are the people responsible for paying for the horse.
I will post a sample contract when I find a suitable one. Remember, it’s a starting place. It should be modified to suit your needs and the buyers needs.